vrijdag 18 mei 2012
Goodbye Sydney
donderdag 10 mei 2012
Doubtful Sound
zondag 6 mei 2012
Mountain Cook
After we hitchhiked to Tasman Glacier, and did a day walk to Hooker Valley, we were ready for a bigger challenge. We decided to do an overnight long walk to Mueller Hut. The Mountain Cook Village, named after British explorer James Cook, is a cute, but cold village, which does not have a supermarket or an ATM machine. We basically lived of cookies, chocolate, white bread and potatoes because of our bliss ignorance. The village resides at 700 meter altitude and is surrounded by big snowcapped mountains, of which Mt Cook is the biggest with 3800 meters. Our hiking destination the Mueller hut was located on top of a mountain at an altitude of 1800 meters. This meant that we were going to climb a rough 1000 meters up a mountain! Early in the morning, after we made our preparations we went to the visitor center to purchase our hut tickets and to rent a sleeping bag for myself. Onno already bought one in Queenstown. Suddenly, renting one was not possible any more as of that day. Ah well, armed with thermo underwear and merino woollen vests I was not that concerned. How cold could it be? The ascending started with many, many stair cases. Halfway the mountain, the track became more difficult to climb. There was no longer a clear pathway to walk on and we had to climb up on rocks and little stones. Slowly, more and more snow started appearing. Before we knew it, our ankles were deeply covered in snow. The last hour was tough and we kept slipping away as it was also quite icy.
Once on top, we were rewarded with the most amazing view I´ve seen so far. The hut provided a 360 degree panorama encompassing glaciers, ice cliffs, vertical rock fares, and New Zealand´s highest peaks. It was a great view for hearing and seeing ice falls, avalanches (=lawine), alpine sunrises and equally unforgettable sunsets. The cold at night was unbearable. We were sleeping at night with a lot of degrees under zero. The old and scruffy blankets did not provide much comfort. The next day, descending the track was really difficult which resulted in a lot of falls and slidings. However, at some point I was in a flow and jumped from rock to rock enthusiastically. I felt like a waterdancer from Game of Thrones series. I bragged a bit up in the hut about the fact that I like to think that I am rather athletic and therefore experienced no problems during the hiking. I am glad these people did not witness my intense muscle pain for the following few days. Honestly, I could not walk for two days after this hiking track. I am still limping today. But it was worth it.
maandag 30 april 2012
Lake Tekapo
I physically collapsed at the town Te Anau and stayed there healing in a cosy homestay hostel called Rosie’s. I guess my tiredness of post-internship period with a mixture of traveling anxiety had caught up with me. In addition, I guess that is also the price you have to pay for paradise: foreign pathogens. Luckily, I was not suffering from fever. I just caught a rather intense cold and my muscles were very weak. I spend some quiet days for a week inside reading my book. Fortunately, I was feeling much better when I left Te Anau to meet up with Onno in Queenstown. It was really nice to see each other again after being six months apart. My solo traveling days are over, and now I have a traveling buddy for my remaining days. It’s nice to have a companion here. It was unbelievable, but I really needed to adjust myself into speaking Dutch again. I am rather talkative, but due to not having spoken Dutch for a while now I just kept stumbling on a lot of words. We had one day to spend in Queenstown and we took a gondola to Bob’s peak, which granted us a nice view of the valley in which the city lays.
The following day we took the bus to our next destination: Lake Tekapo. This lake has a very characteristic turquoise colour. Interestingly, the ice glaciers of the mountains that shape this lake crush the rock particles with such a large force that it creates dust particles through a grinding process. Consequently, this rock flour sediment floats on the glacial melt water and refracts the sunlight beaming down with a blazing turquoise colour. Later that day, armed with torches we made our way in the black of the night to experience the region’s glorious night sky from atop nearby Mt. John. It was a very clear, quiet night and a lot of southern hemisphere stars were amazingly revealed. After doing a beautiful four hour hiking track the next day, we soaked our tired bodies into the hot pools of Tekapo. Now we are staying at Mt. Cook village. To be continued…
vrijdag 20 april 2012
Queenstown and its Goat-Woolen-Sock couples
- human genome discoveries reaching the bench side, leading to personalized treatments.
- stem cell therapies in which adult stem cells can become manipulated to acquire essential features of embryonic stem cells. This leads to sidestepping ethical concerns about usage of human embryo’s for research,
- massive decline in heart disease and cancer, of which the latter is caused by more specifically targeted cancer therapies,
- strong prolonged survival of HIV patients due to combination therapies,
- improvements in field of surgery by means of minor invasive or even robotic techniques,
- even in the field of pediatric leukemia has the survival rate increased from 30% towards 80% for the common leukemia form ALL in the past decade, etc.
zondag 15 april 2012
Kaikoura & Hanmer Springs
I travelled by bus 183 km north from Christchurch towards Kaikoura. The bus rode through beautiful scenery along coastline and in between mountains. I stayed at a cute, small hostel called Sunrise Lodge that is run by an enthusiastic couple. Fresh made chocolate muffins were waiting for me. I’d say I prefer smaller, but cosy hostels above larger, but popular hostels. The first thing I noticed was amazing snowcapped peaks of mountains so close to the sea. Morning clouds were encircling these mountains, resembling rings of planet Saturnus. Marine animals are abundant here in Kaikoura due to ocean-current and other conditions leading to an upwelling force, bringing nutrients up from the ocean floor into the feeding zone of seabed lining the coast.
I did the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway, which is a four hour loop along the cliffs to South Bay. This was an amazing experience. En route I stumbled into a big, fat, fur seal blocking my pathway, lying in the sun against a rock, while other seals were splashing in the water; enjoying life. Startled, I felt like I was walking in a zoo. But I wasn’t; this was real wildlife.
After two days I travelled by bus 134 km inland towards Hanmer Springs. This bus ride was zigzagging around mountains, from left to right, up and down. It made me feel nausea, but luckily I could hold my stomach content together. But the view was so amazing: bright, green mountains everywhere. Hanmer springs is a beautiful village surrounded by these mountains. The first night in the hostel I was playing the drinking game Death of Fire with Northern Kiwi’s, while the next night I was playing Pictionary with an adorable family. It’s funny how a certain mixture of people determines the vibe of the night. Hanmer Springs is known for its hot thermal pools, benefiting from natural mineral water, clear alpine air, and uplifting environment. The mineral-rich water of Hanmer Springs is naturally warmed by the intense heat radiating from the earth’s core. It was so relaxing to soak my body in these hot pools, while breathing in the cold air, with a view of mountains. It actually reminded me of the day in Budapest after I rowed 400 km with Team Beau 4 Rights from Vienna to Budapest, when we visited a hot pool there. Our sore muscles, exhausted body was laying lifeless in these hot pools trying to recover; good memories. The next day I did a nice hiking track through Hanmer Springs Forest with a fellow Dutch girl I met in the hostel. I am in love with the hostel as well. It’s a wooden house with lots of atmosphere with free chocolate milk and ice cream! Next destination: Queenstown.
dinsdag 10 april 2012
Christchurch & Akaroa
Firstly, a few words about the amazing hostel I am staying at in Christchurch. I am staying in the Jailhouse Hostel, which used to be a former prison. You can still tell the past identity of this building by looking at little details, such as the barred windows for example. I thinks it’s so cool, but also weird, to sleep in a room that used to be a prison cell. Anyway, my arrival in Christchurch went really smoothly, and the first thing I noticed was the cold. My Sydney spoiled body is not used to experiencing temperatures below 20 degrees any more. Winter is coming. My body temperature regulation system has claimed new standards. Therefore, I found myself walking through Christchurch with a long trouser, woollen hoodie, and a scarf folded around my neck. But despite these clothing precautions, I was still shivering at 15 degrees Celsius, whereas the Kiwi folk were still walking around in shorts and singlets. Those windows wide-opened, bare chest Stockholm days of minus 10 degrees temperatures seem to be far in the past now. It wasn’t all bad, though. The sun on your face with a cold breeze also has something refreshing, and sobering. I have to admit, the air here is very clean and pure to inhale. My lungs are content. The city center of Christchurch is entirely barricaded and referred to as the Red Zone. The recent earthquake in September that took many lives still left visible scars in the city. Walking there just made me realize how bizarre, and shocking, it must be for a center of the city to be wiped down. I visited the Canterbury Museum and I was glancing through a Photography book about the effects of this earthquake. It had sent cold shivers down my spine. I remembered hearing the disaster on the News in the Netherlands at the time. I was shocked for approx. a brief three seconds and then continued with my life. Now, I was just completely moved. The pictures showed the severe damage of buildings, cars, illustrating the power of nature. But it also depicted the pain and suffering on the faces of unexpected inhabitants. I felt a sting of tears in my eyes, embarrassingly in a crowded museum. Obviously, the tiredness of my two hour jetlag was getting the best of me. Some words about hostel life style. I was really disgustingly surprised about the high amounts of fast food intake by my fellow travellers. I hope I won’t succumb to that.
The next day I booked a bus to visit the city Akaroa. This city lies in the crater of former three volcanos, which now constitutes a valley of three mountains. You can still see different mountain layers material covering each other, indicating different time points of volcano eruptions. Also interesting, is the fact that the entire city has a French culture. A little history: James Cook, British explorer, claimed New Zealand in 18-something. However, two years before Britain arrived in New Zealand, the French had already discovered this land. They were pleased with the potential of New Zealand, and went back to France to inspire the people there to form a community in this newfound promising country. A boat with 66 French settlers, through storm and wind, finally arrived in New Zealand, only to find a British flag saluting them. The British had managed to make an agreement with the local Maori folk, before the French could. Imagine how New Zealand could’ve turned out to be if the French explores had arrived two year earlier. The exact nature of the agreement with the British, French, and local Maori people is really complicated, and is still a very active, debatable subject here in New Zealand. Nevertheless, the city Akarao was given to the French and its French flavour is still very detectable. (In this area, the Germans also had claimed a bay, called German Bay. But during the World Wars, it seemed inappropriate to have a bay called German Bay in a British claimed country. Therefore they had to change their name in Maori: Takipatu) Akarao was a very cute, small city with a harbour filled with bright blue, greenish water, and beautiful green mountains surrounding it, with many, many sheeps. Tomorrow, I am escaping from jail and flee to a city up north from here: Kaikoura.
vrijdag 6 april 2012
Happiness to die for
zaterdag 31 maart 2012
Goodbye Garvan Institute
maandag 19 maart 2012
Flying to Brissie on my B-day
woensdag 14 maart 2012
Winning Karaoke at Stonewall
zaterdag 10 maart 2012
Spit bridge to Manly Scenery walk
Especially the combination of the rain forest vibe, private beach moment, and the dry desert feeling made it a diverse bush-walk. And my hiking shoes did an awesome job. Now I am going to sleep, tanned, tired, but content.